The Armoury for Less: Rich in his Panama Hat

IMG_3153
This time around, I spend just a bit more to create an awesome sartorial-casual outfit inspired by the modern/vintage style of Rich Carroll!  It should just show you that playing with suit fabrics and shirt textures can really help you suit up in a relaxed way.  It definitely helps if you want to look good in summer!  No tie required; panama is a must.

The Inspiration

Here is Armoury NYC Store Manager Richard Carroll, looking as great as always in a fantastic late summer outfit.  It’s very simple, consisting of a tartan plaid shirt, navy blue suit, and crisp Panama Hat.  Most of the previous outfits have been filled with patterns or separate pieces, but sometimes solids and a fun shirt are the best way to go!

Don’t think for a second that Rich is dying in this outfit.  You can definitely wear suits in the summer! His suit isn’t made of a heavy wool, but probably a tropical weight one from Ring Jacket.  Being a summer suit, it is most likely unlined or half lined.  This means that the suit doesn’t have the shiny- fabric lining the inside of the suit; the removal of this layer adds breatheability to the suit so you won’t get to hot in the suit.    Many bespoke or vintage suits are at least half-lined, since it is the mark of expert craftsman ship

 Many mall retailers (I’m looking at you BR) don’t follow this practice, at least on most of their suits.  The lining does give more structure to a suit, but it also covers seams and threads on the inside of the suit, which is why fast-fashion and factory/computer made suits have lining.

Richard has a fascination with American ivy/vintage style of the 1950s-1960s and this outfit is no exception.  A panama hat and a lightweight suit have been staples of American style for years. Here’s some ads from the 1950’s showing two men wearing the Straw Boater and a Panama.

I don’t know the exact price of the items, but I’m going to base it off the similar items on the Armoury website.  I will note that the original tumblr post did specify that Richard is wearing a Ring Jacket suit (no exact model) and that Richard does collect vintage clothing; his shirt is probably a vintage Brooks Brothers one!

Lock & Co Panama Hat: $370

Ring Jacket Tropical Wool Suit: $1,700

Total: $2,070

My Outfit 

IMG_3178

Pretty darn close, don’t you think? My suit is from SuitSupply, and while it isn’t unlined, it still has soft shoulders and is constructed of a light blend of wool and linen.  The linen is lightweight and breathable while the wool keeps the suit tough and retain its shape.  It’s a gorgeous shade of light blue, which isn’t as flat Rich’s suit.  Depending on your office, it can still be worn to work!

I’m going to take a moment to say that Suit Supply should be your go to store for your suits.  Many mall retailers lack the quality and details that Suit Supply can offer!  A J. Crew suit will put you at $700, but still contain skimpy, thin lapels.  Suit Supply ranges from $400-900 and gives you the classic lapels that will stand the test of time.  Just look at how this suit compares to the Ring Jacket one!  While the construction might be different (Suit Supply still uses factories and are not hand made), the details are pretty spot on.

IMG_3115

The Panama was an inexpensive one I found on eBay.  Instead of the typical fedora shape that most people get (like Rich), this one is the optimo model, which has its roots in the safari pith helmet.  It’s a much more dandy design, but I think it still looks great! If you do get one, remember to wear it with more sartorial or vintage inspired outfits.  It won’t look good if you just do a tee and shorts,  unless this is what you like.

IMG_3145

Wrinklier textures are very appropriate for summer and casual suiting.

I think that this light weight/colored oxford shirt works well with the suit, due to the fact that the suit is much more saturated than the shirt.  It may not be the cool vintage tartan color of the Inspiration, but the double bengal stripe is ultra-classic; you could wear it open collar or with a tie!

Also note how wrinkly the textures are, both on the suit and the shirt! Since this is a casual summer outfit, it works perfectly for relaxed vibes.  Who knew that texture could be a great way to dress down a suit?  It’s living proof that a jacket and trousers aren’t just for the boardroom!

IMG_3200

Keep your feet breathing with woven leather spectator shoes!
IMG_3180

My Cost

Suit Supply Lazio Wool-Linen Suit: $500

Rugby(?) Oxford: $20

AE Woven Spectators: $40

Optimo Panama: $50

Total:  $610

This one is one of my pricier outfits, I’ll give you that.  Normally most of my suits are bought on sale or from eBay as a vintage item, but this one I bought new.  The reason why lies in the lapels.  If you look at Rich’s Ring Jacket item, note the size of the lapels and angle of the gorge.  It’s pretty wide! Almost all mall-brands like J. Crew, Banana Republic, and H&M are still in the “skinny lapel” phase. If  you know me in real life, lapels are one of the biggest details that I absolutely obsess over in a suit.  Suit Supply is one of the only brands that I know that produce wide lapel suits in the affordable price range of $400-600!   Sometimes, you have to pay for details if you really want them.

Also note that my Suit Supply suit is fully lined and is still made in a factory.  Ring Jacket garments are either unlined or half-lined, which requires skill to do and results in a fantastic handmade garment.  That’s what you get when you pay for a $1,700 suit: the artistry.  I’ve put on high-end suits before, and nothing from a mall-brand (or even Suit Supply) compare to it.  I do admire quality and artistry very much and it is my goal to have an item like this made for me at some point in life.  Until then, I’m perfectly happy finding suitable alternatives that still have the details (like lapels) that I desire!  There are always ways to dress how you like on any budget.

If you want me to help you recreate a certain look (or if you want me to do a challenge), feel free to comment a cool picture!  You can always email me directly at inquiry.streetxsprezza@gmail.com. I love hearing from you guys; I’ll credit you with any contribution or ideas that you have.

Always a pleasure,

Ethan W.

Street x Sprezza

Photography by Scott. E 

Advertisements

7 comments

  1. sean · August 5, 2016

    hey nice blog! i was checking suitsupplys site and i was wondering how do you make ur pant look high waisted? since suit from suitapply only comes with standardized sizes. so did they designed to be high waisted? that would be nice

    Like

    • Ethan W. · August 5, 2016

      It helps to wear suspenders! It allows the pants to be as high as they need to be! It may also help that I have different proportions.

      Like

  2. Pingback: The Armoury for Less: Jake Grantham | STREET x SPREZZA
  3. Pingback: Three DBs, Three Styles | STREET x SPREZZA
  4. Pingback: The Armoury for Less: Mark Cho in Italy | STREET x SPREZZA
  5. Pingback: Q & A: Finding the Perfect Jacket Fit | STREET x SPREZZA
  6. Pingback: Inspiration: Curtis with Solids + Stripes | STREET x SPREZZA

Comment Away!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s