As I continue to be more intentional in my buying (instead of buying random thrifts for the sake of tailoring), I’ve decided that my money could be better used on obtaining grails, both for wear and use in a bespoke reproduction. One of the first ones was the 1930’s brown SB patch pocket suit (with gorgeous lapels). This jacket was the next one.
This review has been updated 9/8/17.
It’s been over a year since I’ve purchased an Made-to-Measure suit from Indochino. Now I realized that there were many issues with my first suit made from them, even though I got measured by their own sales associates in their store. The suit looked pretty good after tailoring (and I did get another suit made from them) but I decided not to try them again until I had the money and desire for another suit. Now that I’ve had sometime to learn more about fit, details, and my overall desired aesthetic, I thought I’d save up and give them other try! I also realized that I had a gaping hole in my wardrobe: I didn’t own a plain, navy blue double breasted suit. So I deleted my measurements, got measured by my friend Spencer, and bought a suit on Black Friday. It’s basically a whole new review on Indochino.
<Drake’s is a company that we’ve referenced many times through the course of this blog. For those of you who are familiar with the company, they first got their start in the 1970’s selling ties and pocket squares. 30 years later, the company has expanded their product offering! They’ve begun to offer shirts, sportcoats, sweaters, and (now) high-rise pants! To celebrate their latest products and the opening of their first American store, I decided to do an “Inspiration for Less” based on their newly released Fall 2016 look book.
I’ve been meaning to go to SF (and the Bay Area) and shop around for a long time. The last time I went was two years ago when Tim and I stumbled upon Haight Street and its awesome vintage stores. I planned to go for my 21st birthday in July, but circumstances arose that only allowed us to go during this past September Weekend! Spencer, Jeremiah and I (the Spring 2016 Dapper Day crew) were only able to spend two nights/one day in the Area but it was definitely a lot of fun, especially since we were able to dress up and walk around!
We’ve been looking at The Armoury for a long time now, with a majority of my outfits focusing on recreating ones by Dick Carroll. As a result, it has been ivy focused, with repp stripes and oxford shirts. For this article, I’m going to be recreating one of my favorite outfits of all time, worn by one of the first Armourers: Jake Grantham.
Now that we can agree that pleats are cool, it’s time to try them out. I noted in my previous article that it is difficult to obtain pleated pants with the necessary details (high rise, slim-straight). So when I was presented with an opportunity to try and tailor down some 1980’s baggy, double pleated pants, I took it. If it worked out, I may have found a way to get pleated pants at an affordable price! If not, I’ll be out a few bucks, but I know it can’t be done. Let’s find out!
Just look at those pleats, courtesy of Permanent Style. If you show this to any mainstream fashion guy, he’d recoil immediately. Flat-front pants have been the way to go for the past few years. Favoring the clean look, the mainstream #menswear community has renounced all ties to the dreadful 1990s business look. But classic enthusiasts in the community have always favored pleats and have still had them in their trousers without looking terrible! Here, we look at the brief history of pleats and how they have evolved through menswear. Hopefully you’ll agree that pleats are, and always have been, cool.